Anne is a founding member of APDT Ireland and is CAP2 certified (with distinctions).
She works with a large canine welfare organisation, A Dog's Life, as a training/behaviour consultant and board member through which she sees hundreds of dogs and their people every year.
All dogs bark but some dogs take it to a new level and their barking becomes a problem for those within earshot. Excessive or problem barking may cause some sleepless nights or just be an annoyance but in some cases it can escalate to neighbourhood feuds and even legal action.
Barking among dogs raises lots of questions; obviously it is part of their communication and signaling repertoire but just where and how it came about has always been a bit of a mystery. For a long time it was thought that barking was purely for our benefit, being seen (heard?) mainly in domestic dogs and not adult ferals or wild canid adults. But some work on this has shown that perhaps people are not all that adept at interpreting barking and dogs seem to be better at it then thought!
Excessive barking is usually an indicator of an underlying issue, whether that be physiological or behavioural or a combination of both. Behaviourally, dogs usually vocalise due to conflict as in not being sure how to proceed in a given situation – if in doubt shout instead!
Therefore when dealing with excessive barking we need to consider the underlying issues so to be sure to modify barking rather than just suppressing it. This is what makes aversive anti-bark devices so ineffective – they target only the barking (and they are not always so great at even that) and leave the dog to express the underlying issue in other ways and possibly making them worse due to fallout associated with the use of aversives.
The danger with using any aversive is not that it won't "work" but that the dog may associate a remote aversive with other stimuli. If the dog is barking because they are fearful we may suppress the behavioural manifestation of that fear but probably serve to contriubte to that fear - any time scary people show up so does this nasty smell/blast in the face etc.
If the dog is frustrated we suppress their behaviour that allows them to cope with that frustration and it will likely manifest itself elsewhere.
Also the biggest danger with aversives and especially remote aversives is that unless timing, execution and intensity is extreme and accurate then it is likely to take a number of repetitions to get the dog learning which behaviour and which stimuli cause the aversive to appear. As above, the warning beep and verbal reprimand is still required.
Aversives that are remotely applied may not only be associated with the behaviour we want to associate them with but also with other occurences that will cause the dog to expect aversives when these stimuli are about. One of the leading causes of reactivity in my experience is the association of the trigger with an applied aversive.
Why is he barking?
There are different types of problem barking, each having different underlying causes and each modified in different ways. For the most part excessive barking is a workable ‘problem’ behaviour but one that will take some time and effort to control and reduce. Sometimes a combination of approaches will be required to help with problem barking.
Watchdog Barking is a behaviour we don’t want to get rid of totally, just control it and ‘turn it off’ when it’s not required.
Offensive barkers bark to protect themselves and possibly their territory and bark at anything or anyone they perceive as encroaching on them. This barking is often coupled with assertive body language.
Defensive barkers do so to protect themselves and move a threat away from them; as such this barking is usually seen with much more nervous body language.
Both offensive and defensive barking is borne out of fear and usually lack of experience. Barking to these dogs is a way of asking for distance and time before deciding how to act. These barkers often spook at noises which will set them off and they are often difficult to quieten.
Boredom and Recreational Barkers are usually frustrated, distressed or bored and the problem barking is often present with other behaviours – particularly of the destructive variety e.g. chewing, digging etc. These are high energy dogs that use barking to work off some energy and will bark at any chance.
Excited Barkers use barking as an outlet for energy and are often highly reactive dogs who bark in all sorts of different situations when stimulated. They are usually alert and appear very happy to be barking! Barking for these dogs is self-rewarding (like boredom barking) and the more they bark the more excited they become so the more they bark and so on…
Attention Seeking Barkers do so because when they bark they become the centre of attention – whether that means getting nice things or being told off – it is all rewarding to this barker.
Separation Distress causes barking in dogs that are upset when separated from someone special. Vocalisation (including barking, howling, whining etc.) is a common sign of distress and conflict in dogs and may be accompanied by other related distress behaviours.
Help for the Excessive Barker
Let’s look at some general tips for reducing barking – we can look at more specific barking later on…
1. vet check
First thing is to rule out a physiological basis for barking especially if barking has started or increased recently and suddenly so bring your dog to your vet for a full check up.
2. categorise
Next try to identify to which category your dog’s barking fits. Keep a record of barking incidents by noting who is around when barking begins, what is your pet directing their barking towards, what do you do in a barking situation and how does you pet respond? If you are worried about your pet’s barking when you are not around, record your dog on video during an absence of about one hour.
By recording barking incidents we may be able to identify a pattern based on the when, where and why.
3. management
If you can identify particular triggers that cause the barking prevent your dog getting the opportunity to practice shouting by limiting his access to triggers. So block his visual access to the outside world at windows, gates and fences for example.
4. enrichment
Improving your dog’s lifestyle by occupying him with basic manners training, exercise and plenty of mental stimulation will help to reduce his distress, frustration and boredom (we are knocking out several reasons for barking right there!). And also by providing your dog with something to do he won’t have as much time on his paws for barking.
Keep your dog busy with interactive enrichment toys such as kongs or activity treat balls . Ditch the dog food bowls and have your dog earn his entire diet from enrichment toys and for good behaviour.
5. reward calm, quiet behaviour
Your dog cannot and does not bark all the time so catch him doing the right thing – reward quiet (the absence of barking) with attention, praise, tummy scratches, treats, toys or anything that your dog likes.
Clicker training can be used to reward the silences between barks as your dog takes a breath!
Only give your dog attention when he is quiet and undemanding. Actively ignore your dog’s pushy attention seeking behaviour by turning and walking away from him and averting eye contact until he is quiet.
6. turn barking ‘on’ and ‘off’ on cue
Teach your dog to ‘speak’ and ‘shush’ on cue:
- say “speak”
- have an assistant ring the doorbell (or some other prompt that gets your dog barking)
- allow him three barks (woof, woof, woof)
- say “shush”
- reveal a really really really yummy treat and hold it right at his nose
See Train Your Dog Month Day 19 for more on teaching this trick.
Even if your dog is barking you can use the ‘shush’ part of this routine to quieten him. Dog barks “WOOF”; say “shush” and reveal a tasty treat; reward with another couple of treats to reward and extend the quiet.
7. reduce crazy canine behaviour
Reducing arousal and crazy dog behaviour is the key to keeping dogs quieter and better able to control the barking if it does start.
Put calm behaviour on cue, use calmatives and play lots of impulse control games. Jazz up and Settle down (with barking) is great as you reward calm behaviour with the opportunity to bark and go crazy.
There are no quick fixes and there is more to behaviour than just the behaviour that we see (or hear)
Annes latest on barking 2020
aniedireland.wordpress.com/2020/08/17/barking-driving-you-mad/
Anne answers some questions from club members:
Hi Anne,
Evie is 7 1/2 months and has in the last couple of weeks started to bark at any noise in doors, these are all noises she is familiar with. It seems like her hearing sensitivity has heightened, she is not appearing nervous, frightened and eventually stops. I have read this is called alarm barking & common at this age?. I don't have a problem with her barking as it is at a noise, however she does seem to go on, how do I encourage her that , that is enough now. Am currently reassuring her and then distracting her with play. Is there anything else I can do? Thanks
Niki
Anne replies
An increase in spooky type barking is common at the onset of adolescence. It is not so much that her hearing has become better but that her sensitivity to possible sources of danger is heightened. It is really important to tackle this now before she starts moving into the adult-behaviour phase.
Out of interest, has she been spayed? Has she had a heat? If so, when did it end?
Open-Bar-Close-Bar
First thing is to associate spooky noises with something good happening so that her feeling the need to bark reduces.
Are there particular types of noises that she is likely to bark at?
We generally use what is called an open-bar-closed-bar protocol when desensitising fears. This means that we teach the dog that the feared noise (in this case) makes something good happen and when it goes away so do the good times.
It's important when dealing with fears that the dog is never forced to confront their fear. We need to keep the scaredy dog below threshold which means at such an exposure to the scary stimulus that they don't have a full on reaction.
With noises that happen in real life this can be difficult but doing things such as playing the radio or TV a little louder can help.
Open-bar-closed-bar for noises:
Because planning for real life noises can be difficult its important to get lots of set ups in so that we can practice for real life and make that easier for the dog.
Use sounds found on youtube or findsounds.com
Cut up lots of high value rewards to half fingernail size.
Play the sound at such a volume that Evie does not react, it's ok if she appears to notice the sound and then go about her business.
Once a safe working volume has been established, play the sound and immediately toss two or three treats to Evie.
It doesn't matter what she is doing - the sound just 'makes' the treats appear.
However, if she reacts you are playing the sound too loudly so quit and work from a lower volume next session.
So, you play the sound and then toss the treats. Repeat.
Soon you will notice that she looks to you upon hearing the sound - this is a yippee response and means that you can increase the volume a little too.
Practice at each volume level and work for a yippee response.
If sounds happen in real life and you are present try to toss treats as soon as you hear the sound - doesn't matter what she is doing, just teach her that the sound means yummies show up!
Real life occurrences won't happen enough and/or you won't be accurate enough so that's why set ups are important so as to reinforce the idea.
Teach speak/shush
Train her to bark on cue and to shush on cue so that you can turn her barking off when needed.
Right now you are doing exactly the right thing. When she spooks talk to her and try to entice her into a game - allow her to come to you for comfort if she wants it. Try getting some open-bar-close-bar practice in too!
Many thanks Anne, will put into practice today the playing of sounds & open-bar-close bar practice.
No she hasn't been spayed yet, am following vets advice of one season first then to be done approx 10 weeks after that, so hasn't been in heat yet.
We have woodland behind our house & she has started to bark often at 'wildlife' noises ie birds, squirrels rummaging ( without seeing them ), foxes calling, all these noises she has heard before and would bark, now she goes on for quite some time. She is also barking at noises she hears indoors ie closing of door upstairs, footsteps upstairs, again all familiar noises, that she used to ignore.
I was also wondering whether because her days are rather quiet, as in just her & me, I work from home so quite peaceful, but evenings & wkends noisier once rest of family comes home, hubby & 3 sons ( older 10 -19 ), that is bothering her?
Anne Replies:
Re. spaying her - I agree with your vet to allow her to have one heat cycle. However, generally from a behavioural point of view we prefer to have bitches spayed 13 weeks after the end of the heat and at least 4 weeks before the start of the next one.
This has got to do with the hormonal stages of the bitch's cycle and if spayed in the 'wrong' phase it can effect behaviour particularly in relation to fearful and aggressive behaviour.
Her interest in wildlife may certainly be contributing to her behaviour - make sure to work in lots of recall practice in this context so that you are prepared for the fun when adolescent hits fully ;-
And certainly the contrast between weekdays and weekends may be contributory.
Jilly is 11 months and is lovely but her barking is driving us crazy at times. The slightest thing can set her off such as seeing a cat or someone closing their car door...I've tried ignoring her, removing her from the window, saying 'enough' etc but she runs round the house and/or garden barking and growling for a few minutes. She's such a sweetie but I worry she's a bit anxious and can't settle at times like this, any help appreciated x
Hi certainly sounds like Jilly is a bit spooky - very common at this age and she needs some help.
Great that you have recognised that she needs help settling as that will be a big help.
You could also look at some sound desensitising; there is a program here, albeit for fireworks, but can be applied to any sounds :http://pawsitivedawgs.wordpress.com/2010/12/04/fireworkfear/
Start with this simple calming exercise :http://pawsitivedawgs.wordpress.com/2010/12/27/matwork/
Learning to settle is a challenge for adolescent dogs - if you want to learn more about calming in general there is a whole series here:
http://pawsitivedawgs.wordpress.com/crazy-canines/
Best of luck
Hi, my 9 month old cockapoo Meg barks at anything with 4 legs that come on the TV,I have tried distraction and saying "No" in a commanding voice,but she keeps barking?
This is quite common. To be able to desensitise Meg to this and teach an alternative, more acceptable behaviour I need a little more information.
Does it matter if the sound is on or not?
Will she alert and bark at animals if she sees them only, or first hears something?
I don't think you need to bother with the 'commanding' voice. If the dog knows the meaning of a cue you should be able to whisper it - dogs have very good hearing
If you must raise your voice you are relying on startling the dog rather than teaching them a more desirable behaviour.
First thing is always management, especially with self rewarding behaviours like barking. This means to prevent the dog from practicing the behaviour as we all know that practice means perfect!
So that means she will need to be removed from the room should you be watching something with animals in it and so on.
While managing you can put some training in place.
The first thing is to get Meg a little busier with lots more mental exercise; more here: http://pawsitivedawgs.wordpress.com/2012/04/13/enrichments/
You could also work on some self control with settle training:http://pawsitivedawgs.wordpress.com/2010/12/27/matwork/
In other situations teach her to bark and shush on cue:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vtn8NhofOw
In order to desensitise her to the specific animals on the TV you will need to have a bit of that foundation in place first.
Then you can look at working on the TV stuff.
If Meg is triggered by the sounds then you would start with just the picture and the TV on mute.
If she is triggered by the image, regardless of the sound then it's a little more complex.
Turn on the TV and something you know will not have animals in it - you might need to put on a DVD so you can be sure.
Start with everything low key so at the start, have the volume right down so you cannot hear it.
Practice a Look At That exercise (LAT). Sit with her and every time she looks at the TV, say YES! and feed two high value rewards.
Two two/three minute sessions a day is lots.
Soon she will be looking at the TV and then to you wondering where her treat is - that's perfect.
Now you can turn the TV up a little and repeat until the TV is at a normal volume.
This will probably take a couple of days and then you can start to watch stuff with animals in. Back to the beginning though with volume right down.
You may need to cover the screen with a thin sheet to start with .
And you basically start the LAT all over again.
The idea is to always work at a level at which the dog isn't reacting. If she is you need to go back to the last point at which she was most comfortable.
This is quite common. To be able to desensitise Meg to this and teach an alternative, more acceptable behaviour I need a little more information.
Does it matter if the sound is on or not?
Will she alert and bark at animals if she sees them only, or first hears something?
I don't think you need to bother with the 'commanding' voice. If the dog knows the meaning of a cue you should be able to whisper it - dogs have very good hearing
If you must raise your voice you are relying on startling the dog rather than teaching them a more desirable behaviour.
First thing is always management, especially with self rewarding behaviours like barking. This means to prevent the dog from practicing the behaviour as we all know that practice means perfect!
So that means she will need to be removed from the room should you be watching something with animals in it and so on.
While managing you can put some training in place.
The first thing is to get Meg a little busier with lots more mental exercise; more here: http://pawsitivedawgs.wordpress.com/2012/04/13/enrichments/
You could also work on some self control with settle training:http://pawsitivedawgs.wordpress.com/2010/12/27/matwork/
In other situations teach her to bark and shush on cue:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vtn8NhofOw
In order to desensitise her to the specific animals on the TV you will need to have a bit of that foundation in place first.
Then you can look at working on the TV stuff.
If Meg is triggered by the sounds then you would start with just the picture and the TV on mute.
If she is triggered by the image, regardless of the sound then it's a little more complex.
Turn on the TV and something you know will not have animals in it - you might need to put on a DVD so you can be sure.
Start with everything low key so at the start, have the volume right down so you cannot hear it.
Practice a Look At That exercise (LAT). Sit with her and every time she looks at the TV, say YES! and feed two high value rewards.
Two two/three minute sessions a day is lots.
Soon she will be looking at the TV and then to you wondering where her treat is - that's perfect.
Now you can turn the TV up a little and repeat until the TV is at a normal volume.
This will probably take a couple of days and then you can start to watch stuff with animals in. Back to the beginning though with volume right down.
You may need to cover the screen with a thin sheet to start with .
And you basically start the LAT all over again.
The idea is to always work at a level at which the dog isn't reacting. If she is you need to go back to the last point at which she was most comfortable.
Hi Anne. Early morning barking. Jessie is 6 months and sleeps in a crate with the crate door closed. She sleeps until about 6am then whines and barks non stop until we get up. The sequence of events to date: when she was smaller we used to go to her when she barked thinking she may need the toilet (she sometimes did so we didn't mind). Now she definitely doesn't but still barks. We then started to leave her bark, waiting for a silent period because we didn't want to reinforce the barking. There was no silence and we have to get up at some point! The next thing we tried is setting the cooker alarm to come on at 6.15 (she was already barking at this time) at which point we would appear. We were hoping she would learn that we wouldn't come unless the beep went off and eventually stop barking us up. The barking continued as normal and we think she may now be trying to bark the cooker beep to come on! So now we have started to set the cooker alarm before she wakes to train her that we do the waking up, but all it seems to be doing is bringing her body clock even earlier. We don't know what to do. We do not want her in our bedroom at night and we know if we put her in a bed instead of a crate she would just bark at the stairs. We are reaching the end of our tether. Please help. Thanks, claire
- Anne Rogers : Hi, is this the only time that she barks in the crate or for attention?
You have certainly been trying lots of things and I can understand your frustration.
I know you don't want her in the bed room but I may suggest that in some cases but with the crate. Go back to teaching her to settle right beside you and to re-train her on settling even if she wakes.
Here is an outline of a bed time routine, with a crate so as to teach the dog to self settle by not allowing them to become distressed.
https://www.facebook.com/notes/cockapoo-owners-club-uk/anne-rogers-recommended-bedtime-routine-for-puppies/512900715444980
The dog and crate will only be in the bed room for a few days. When she wakes talk to her to settle and reward her right there as soon as she is taking a breath between barks. Once after a few consistent days of her settling again then you can slowly move her and crate away.
She also needs to practice being in the crate and practicing that self control at other times of the day so that the pattern is that she is always settling and being rewarded for quiet.
It requires some consistency and a lot of teaching self control which tends to be missing in dogs of this age
Just going back a couple of steps and building more gradually will help her to learn to self settle.
Hope that helps
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